Rockfax Description
I, 380m. Excellent slab climbing with a superb crack on pitch 5, in the wall left of the big roof. Start just left of the right-hand waterslide. Pitches 1 and 2 are shared with Voie Georges.
1) 5a, 50m. Climb easily up right, then head left to a couple of bolts, then rightwards to belay.
2) 6b, 35m. Delicate climbing following the bolts, then a crack, leads to a stance to the right of a smooth ramp. This pitch can be avoided by climbing the line to the right, then making a short traverse left at the belay.
3) 5c, 25m. Climb diagonally right up the slab. Step left to belay.
4) 50m. Walk left across the grass to belay below the crack in the wall left of the roof.
5) 6a+, 50m. The magnificent crack is gained awkwardly. Beware, this crack eats gear. Run it out a bit, or take more!
6) 6a, 50m. Move right and climb cracks in the slab.
7) 5c, 35m. Climb the slab, then traverse left past a crack and out left to belay.
8) 5c, 30m. Climb slabby cracks up into a corner, then swing out left and up a slab.
9) 6a, 35m. Layback delicate flakes, then climb a slab followed by an awkward bulge.
10) 5c, 45m. The blunt arête above gives run-out climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the splitter crack left of the big roof

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