Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A memorable and adventurous tour of the main section of Long Rock Slab. Although protection is sound, the run-outs are thought provoking. Start 3m right of the shallow pillar of Undercracker at a very thin crack. Take the thin crack to a larger left-leaning crack that leads to the pillar. Gain a small ledge on the top right side of the pillar and move up left to a good break. Step left and up to a good vegetated horizontal break (as for Slip it in Quick) and traverse right to a peg. Climb up flakes to a horizontal break and then pursue a bold line rightwards up positive finger flakes to another vegetated horizontal break. Move right to a thin crack just right of a very slight corner and take this to finish with good gear. © Rockfax
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , South West in Extremis
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Lundy)