Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner. Start below the left side of a flat pillar of rock with a very small wedged block in it at 7m. Climb up the left side of the pillar to the small wedged block and a good ledge just above. Traverse left along a break, then move up to a narrow ramp-line. Follow this up right as it steepens to form a corner, peg, and continue up the left curving overlap to join the finish of Twinkletoes. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Ultimate E1 ticklist , South West in Extremis
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 31 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unless a peg sticking out 2 inches is considered good the beta below about the peg being good is BS!! Not convinced the undercut flake is going to take a large fall, not to be underestimated. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Unless a peg sticking out 2 inches is considered good the beta below about the peg being good is BS!! Not convinced the undercut flake is going to take a large fall, not to be underestimated. |
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| Alwaysinjured | 24 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg ok (Jul 22) and is just where you want it. Hard HVS with a confident approach but will feel E1 if you’re tentative, with plenty of 5a moves. Brilliant! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Peg ok (Jul 22) and is just where you want it. Hard HVS with a confident approach but will feel E1 if you’re tentative, with plenty of 5a moves. Brilliant! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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Fruitflancase
Grade: E1 5a ***
(The Dewerstone)