4 pitches.
The Central Pillar of Frenzy’ is an easily accessable 4 pitch E1/2 with an abseil descent which may leave you hungry for more. Out of the sun.
Jim Bridwell, Roger Breedlove, 1973.
Ticklists
Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Yosemite Little Walls For Mortals , Cali Roadtrip Wishlist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| MorganMcGlade | 21 Oct, 2023 |
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βeta: Polished and sustained but definitely worth doing! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Polished and sustained but definitely worth doing! |
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| Mbaillie | 4 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: The alternative rap route described in guidebooks does exist, hard to find first two anchors. From top of P5, rap hard (climbers) left *above* the left slanting, right facing corner feature. About 40-45m. Next one is about 50m straight down, on a ledge to the right of the face you are rapping down. The last one is then easy to find, straight down. Two 60m ropes required | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The alternative rap route described in guidebooks does exist, hard to find first two anchors. From top of P5, rap hard (climbers) left *above* the left slanting, right facing corner feature. About 40-45m. Next one is about 50m straight down, on a ledge to the right of the face you are rapping down. The last one is then easy to find, straight down. Two 60m ropes required |
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| Derek Ryden | 16 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: If you finish after pitch 5 (normal practice these days) be aware that the "alternative rappel route" recommended in the guidebooks is not as shown in either the old and new guides. Rap lengths and positions of anchors are inaccurate, and belay stations are not equipped with rings, so take plenty of leaver 'biners and don't be afraid to use them. Abseiling down the route itself would be an alternative, but you would piss off anyone still on the route, plus, the top pitch has a knot-eating crack, and the party we saw use this descent had to abandon their (stuck) ropes on the final abseil and come back the next day. Your choice! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If you finish after pitch 5 (normal practice these days) be aware that the "alternative rappel route" recommended in the guidebooks is not as shown in either the old and new guides. Rap lengths and positions of anchors are inaccurate, and belay stations are not equipped with rings, so take plenty of leaver 'biners and don't be afraid to use them. Abseiling down the route itself would be an alternative, but you would piss off anyone still on the route, plus, the top pitch has a knot-eating crack, and the party we saw use this descent had to abandon their (stuck) ropes on the final abseil and come back the next day. Your choice! |
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Route of Interest
Northeast Buttress
Grade: 5.9 ***
(Higher Cathedral Rock)