25m. An exciting and magnificent climb up steep rock, with holds aplenty. Start just left of the centre of the crag directly below a double overhang. Take a deep breath and climb the slab to a chimney, Thruch up this to the first roof and a lovely runner placement. Bypass the roof to the right and pull up on crimps to the small ledge. Understand why cams are also called friends before committing to a series of jams and laybacks as you climb the crack past second roof. Using the tree root is a naughty way to avoid the mantle move, and should be avoided at all costs. Finish up an easy groove to a choice of excellent belays. Si Lynch 2009.

Ticklists

Highland Outcrops South *** , Inverness and Moray Rock , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
onlyhalfwayup 14 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Bird nest occupied as of 14/04/24
Show beta
βeta: Bird nest occupied as of 14/04/24
Chris.p.h 1 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This large nest is still present central to the middle edge, no sign but care should be taken
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This large nest is still present central to the middle edge, no sign but care should be taken
Emilymarieh 12 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: large bird nest on the middle edge - don't climb here while nesting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: large bird nest on the middle edge - don't climb here while nesting

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Guidebooks for Huntly's Cave

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 67
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Magic Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Cairn Gorm - Stob Coire an t-Sneachda)

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