180m, 5 pitches.
Northwest spur of the Petit Cayre, approach by the GR52 from the Madone de Fenestre Vacherie, taking a vague path on the right at 2170m to cross over to the base of the spur. Bolted belays (except very last one) and mix of trad and sport, with several bolts in the pitches to protect harder moves.
1) 5b, 40m (old school!)
2) 4c, 25m
3) 5c, 25m
4) 6a max (mostly 5b), 35m
5) 5a, 45m to summit, construct belay.
Descend initially to the east to the brèche (col) , then downclimb on the left via ledges then to the right to rejoin the main couloir back to the route's base. Also possible in 4 abseils back down the route, if not busy, but will need tat.
1) 5b, 40m (old school!)
2) 4c, 25m
3) 5c, 25m
4) 6a max (mostly 5b), 35m
5) 5a, 45m to summit, construct belay.
Descend initially to the east to the brèche (col) , then downclimb on the left via ledges then to the right to rejoin the main couloir back to the route's base. Also possible in 4 abseils back down the route, if not busy, but will need tat.
FA. Chabrier, Cravoisier, N.Dufour, Barillier, Botton, G.Dufour 16/Sep/1956.
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Route of Interest
Eperon Nord Ouest
Grade: TD- ***
(Mont Pelago)