Rockfax Description
Another superb climb - completely bolt-protected and on excellent solid rock. Ideal for a first multi-pitch climb. The original route ran slightly closer to the left arete, but it is now more common to follow the bolts up the centre of the face. It is possible to start on the left arete making a hand-traverse right, but most parties begin below the large roof immediately left of the right arete, as described here.
1) III+, 15m. Climb just left of the arete to a good stance directly below the large roof.
2) III-, 30m. Step out left under the roof then climb direct up the face, following excellent holds up a series of cracks to a stance in the middle of the face.
3) III, 20m. Continue direct again with excellent holds to reach a large belay just over the lip of the tower. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 3+,2,3
Giradi, Dibona 1911.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Irini_Z | 7 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: If you follow the new bolts, it is 2 pitches: 30m and 40m | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If you follow the new bolts, it is 2 pitches: 30m and 40m |
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| gingerbex | 17 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fully bolted. The new Belay for 1st pitch is above the roof | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Fully bolted. The new Belay for 1st pitch is above the roof |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cinque Torri
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Normal Route (Il Gobbo)
Grade: III+ ***
(Il Gobbo, Torre del Diavolo and Torre Leo)