Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route that is perfect for those beginning their Dolomite multi-pitch experience. Although perhaps undeserving of its classic status, it is nonetheless a good route, featuring one hard move on the second pitch.
Start at the highest point of the scree on the left side of the southwest face, under a prominent red niche.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb direct for a few metres into the niche, then move right before continuing direct to reach the line of horizontal roofs. Belay on the right.
2) IV+, 20m. Continue right under the roofs to a break, then climb direct, pulling through a bulge then climb the crack above to belay below an indistinct chimney.
3) III+, 40m. Climb the chimney then continue between two flakes. Where the rock becomes yellower, climb diagonally right below a roof.
4) IV, 30m. Move back left to pull through the bulge then climb direct to a ramp. Follow this left then climb a harder short crack.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb to the left of a loose chimney then follow a ledge right. Climb diagonally left then direct to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch trad route - 4,3,4,3. Popular but disappointing
Ticklists
Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip , Dolomites easy multipitch , Dolomites
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hog Dog | 3 Jan, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: After the first set of abs, head east down the gully to the east (search extensively for anchor), not south down the giant crack through the towers - lots of scary loose rocks! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: After the first set of abs, head east down the gully to the east (search extensively for anchor), not south down the giant crack through the towers - lots of scary loose rocks! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Cinque Torri
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Winkler Crack
Grade: IV+ ***
(Vajolet Towers)