Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A spectacular and bold lead up the right arete of the Doors of Perception corner. Start as for Twinkletoes. Climb the initial corner and then move left and pull out to reach the arete and thin crack that lead to the ledge midway up the corner. Move right and take the arete and wall boldly to the top. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 6 Dec, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Lundy)