Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.
1) 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.
2) 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.
3) 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.
4) 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.
5) 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| johnE | 29 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. the arete is steep, exposed and quite straightforward - lovely | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I really enjoyed this route. the arete is steep, exposed and quite straightforward - lovely |
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| EdC | 15 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Broken foot hold (?) at the top of P1 (Climber's Club Guide) - not too much trouble. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Broken foot hold (?) at the top of P1 (Climber's Club Guide) - not too much trouble. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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Central Rib Route III
Grade: VD ***
(Wintour's Leap)