Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Make an awkward move up to clip the second bolt then climb the tricky left side of the groove to layaways above. Follow the crack on ample jugs and at its top swing out right onto a small ledge atop the arête. Step over to the right to a double ring abseil. Five bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Richard D Jenkin (both led) 03/Jun/2015.
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