Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

15m.

Rockfax Description
There is an indirect version at 5a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb a direct line up the slab reaching out far to left to clip the crazily positioned 3rd Bolt.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gilwern779 22 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: As others have noted the quicklink and carabiner at the top look a little rusty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As others have noted the quicklink and carabiner at the top look a little rusty
Willempy 2 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quicklink and screwgate for lower off are rusty. The screwgate has seized shut and needs replacing as of 2nd April 2023
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quicklink and screwgate for lower off are rusty. The screwgate has seized shut and needs replacing as of 2nd April 2023
Marc Roig 5 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: A rock the size of my head was moving at the top and almost fell towards me when using it as a handhold. I managed to climb past it and throw it down safely, as well as some of the loose rock around it. Hopefully, the rest of the rock will hold now. This shouldn\'t change the grade of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A rock the size of my head was moving at the top and almost fell towards me when using it as a handhold. I managed to climb past it and throw it down safely, as well as some of the loose rock around it. Hopefully, the rest of the rock will hold now. This shouldn't change the grade of the route.

Logged Ascents

46 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Taff's Well West

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
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