Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
A hard start gives way to a pleasant crack and lower-off above it. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Update(1/12/2020): now checked and cleaned and as safe as can be for this quarry.
The imposing, slanting groove located midway between All Hail Cathal and Sometimes I Won’t Thrill You. A closely bolted technical start quickly gains a welcome resting shelf on the left. The wide crack above proves rather jolly and much easier than appearances suggest. Finish at a double ring abseil station at the apex of the groove. Seven bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Yvonne Jones 22/May/2015.
Ticklists
Orange Spot Lower Wye , Orange Spot South Wales Sport , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , 6As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lauren.corbett | 14 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lot less loose than it looks. Surprisingly pleasant | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lot less loose than it looks. Surprisingly pleasant |
||||
| Ale152 | 22 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. We accidentally knocked off a 30-40 kg rock near the anchor, on its right. It was loose and unstable, it fell straight down as soon as it was touched. After cleaning the route ANOTHER rock fell and no one was even climbing. Better to stay away from this line. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. We accidentally knocked off a 30-40 kg rock near the anchor, on its right. It was loose and unstable, it fell straight down as soon as it was touched. After cleaning the route ANOTHER rock fell and no one was even climbing. Better to stay away from this line. |
||||
| PaulJepson | 2 Mar, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose block (probably ~25kg) rocking around in the crack 01/03/20. Can be avoided but very tempting so be careful with what you yard on. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Loose block (probably ~25kg) rocking around in the crack 01/03/20. Can be avoided but very tempting so be careful with what you yard on. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents