Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Quality pumpy climbing. Start at a depression left of a large tree.
1) 4c, 26m. Take the shallow depression left of a low flat-topped block and go rightwards to a slim corner at the long overhang. Climb the corner (peg) and then go up before moving right and up past the middle of three short grooves to the ledge. Belay in a corner.
2) 5c, 24m. Climb the corner to a break and move up right onto it. Take the left-trending crack (pegs) to a break. Move up left of a block to a peg. Make thin moves to a ledge. Finish up a crack. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Mattress | 18 Apr, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: April 2023: Ravens are nesting and have chicks on the belay ledge between this route and Gendarmarie. Suggest avoiding until they have left. |
||||
Cheese Monkey | 4 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 2nd peg has been replaced | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 2nd peg has been replaced |
||||
Mike Hood | 3 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The 2nd peg on the 2nd pitch, the one that protects the crux, disappeared in dramatic fashion yesterday. Hopefully it can be replaced soon. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The 2nd peg on the 2nd pitch, the one that protects the crux, disappeared in dramatic fashion yesterday. Hopefully it can be replaced soon. |
||||
Cat_McK | 23 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pegs pretty new looking so in great condition | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pegs pretty new looking so in great condition |
||||
plant_based_tommo | 25 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Stiff for the grade but well enough protected | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Stiff for the grade but well enough protected |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)