Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A powerful pull over the low overhang a couple of metres right of the crack of All for One... (just left of a low sapling) gains the wall above and a ledge. From the left, head up to a slabby area and then on up to a small pillar. Climb up until a leftward line leads to the big tree on the edge of the cliff © Rockfax
Ticklists
Best slab climbs of the UK , Orange Spot Lower Wye , Shorn Cliff Nose , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , The post lockdown local list , 2020/21 Trips , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , Road to lundy , First trad routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jasper Pickin | 31 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Some great threads all the way up | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some great threads all the way up |
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| Womble | 30 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: One move wonder. But reasonable climbing above | ||
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Show beta
βeta: One move wonder. But reasonable climbing above |
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| Katsmiff | 6 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Low in the grade. Loads of good gear. You can lace it, so take lots of 1-8 nuts. Would be good for someone\'s 1st HVS lead. Hardest bit is the beginning. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Low in the grade. Loads of good gear. You can lace it, so take lots of 1-8 nuts. Would be good for someone's 1st HVS lead. Hardest bit is the beginning. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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No Musketeers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)