Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

Rockfax Description
A popular pitch with two difficult sections. Plenty of protection is close to hand. Start under a bolt in the yellow wall just right of the White Feather groove. Move up the initial wall to the horizontal break and then progress up the difficult wall above past a bolt and peg to eventually arrive at the fragile band that runs across the face at mid-height. Continue to the roof, where a peg and bolt protect a couple of big moves over it. Finish up the wall on good holds to a lower-off/abseil station. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Becky's ticklist , Extreme 2018 , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 25 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: What a route! Many thanks to the rebolt group who have placed shiny pegs and bolts up the route. Tricky start and roof section is MEGA! So much fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a route! Many thanks to the rebolt group who have placed shiny pegs and bolts up the route. Tricky start and roof section is MEGA! So much fun.
ericinbristol 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing holds over the intimidating roof
Show beta
βeta: Amazing holds over the intimidating roof

Logged Ascents

298 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 68
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Never Say Goodbye

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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