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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Similar to Motion Pictures but with a bold initial wall. Climb carefully on concretions up the unprotected bouldery wall to a thread (usually in place) at 5m. Continue to a second thread and make some thinner moves to reach less pressing ground. Head left to finish as for Motion Pictures. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate E2 ticklist , Wye Valley must do , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

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User Date Notes
Rick Sewards 9 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It\'s worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call to prevent him/her from being knocked off the ledge while spotting if you blow the section before the 1st thread
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's worth the belayer taking an anchor from the crack of Last Call to prevent him/her from being knocked off the ledge while spotting if you blow the section before the 1st thread

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 82
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orange Goblin

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Ellwood)

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