62m, 3 pitches. The narrow, impending wall beyond Privateer gives a superb, committing route, reached by traversing into the zawn at lowish tide to an obvious belay ledge. Very well-protected (cams up to #4). Best attempted either during dry, breezy weather or when low tide combines with afternoon sun.
1) 5a, 12m. Climb the groove on the right then break left to a good stance - this gets you clear of the sea and avoids rope drag on next section.
2) 5c, 20m. A line of flakes rises leftwards across the acutely overhanging wall. Follow these to a flat spike then a long move gains obvious quartz holds. Continue steeply to the base of the big ramp and move 6m up this to good belays.
3) 6a, 30m. Climb to the end of the ramp, then up awkwardly through a bulge to enter an overhanging groove which is climbed in a dramatic position to a ledge. A rib leads to a grassy finish and small stake belay 8m up the slope.

FA. P.Littlejohn, D.Garner 30/May/2014.

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Route of Interest
Godspell

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Blackchurch)

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