340m, 7 pitches.
An enjoyable direct route up the left-hand side of the buttress cutting across
Adventures of Toad. The climb is characterised by technical climbing in a series
of barrier walls interspersed by easier turfy sections.
1. 40m Start 20m right of the foot of March Hare’s Gully at a right-slanting groove. Climb this and continue straight up easier ground. Climb a short corner to a blocky ledge beneath a steep wall. 2. 50m Climb the obvious narrow ramp on the right for 20m ( technical and bold). Go up and slightly left to a snow terrace beneath a steep barrier wall. 3. 55m. There are a series of open grooves in the barrier wall. The next pitch takes the groove third right from the left-hand buttress crest (crux). Climb this past an in-situ peg, a needle shaped block in an alcove, and then a large clump of turf just above this at half-height. Once above the wall climb straight up to the next steep wall and belay below a right-facing corner of creaking flakes. The Adventures of Toad traverses in from the left here and continues to the right. 4. 50m Climb the creaking flake-corner for 3m to a good turf ledge. Continue up the fine V-groove with a steep pull out the top, then easier ground to a large snow terrace. Above is yet another barrier wall with a number of grooves cutting through it. 5. 55m Climb the left-trending narrow flakey corner (to the left of a right-tending turfy corner with a rock spire at its base). Gaining the flakey corner is tricky, but the corner is steep but positive. Climb easier ground and a 3m steep wall. 6. and 7. 90m The angle eases; climb to the top by a succession of walls and corners. The climbing remains fun.
Adventures of Toad. The climb is characterised by technical climbing in a series
of barrier walls interspersed by easier turfy sections.
1. 40m Start 20m right of the foot of March Hare’s Gully at a right-slanting groove. Climb this and continue straight up easier ground. Climb a short corner to a blocky ledge beneath a steep wall. 2. 50m Climb the obvious narrow ramp on the right for 20m ( technical and bold). Go up and slightly left to a snow terrace beneath a steep barrier wall. 3. 55m. There are a series of open grooves in the barrier wall. The next pitch takes the groove third right from the left-hand buttress crest (crux). Climb this past an in-situ peg, a needle shaped block in an alcove, and then a large clump of turf just above this at half-height. Once above the wall climb straight up to the next steep wall and belay below a right-facing corner of creaking flakes. The Adventures of Toad traverses in from the left here and continues to the right. 4. 50m Climb the creaking flake-corner for 3m to a good turf ledge. Continue up the fine V-groove with a steep pull out the top, then easier ground to a large snow terrace. Above is yet another barrier wall with a number of grooves cutting through it. 5. 55m Climb the left-trending narrow flakey corner (to the left of a right-tending turfy corner with a rock spire at its base). Gaining the flakey corner is tricky, but the corner is steep but positive. Climb easier ground and a 3m steep wall. 6. and 7. 90m The angle eases; climb to the top by a succession of walls and corners. The climbing remains fun.
Malcolm Bass & Simon Yearsley 22/Jan/2013.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Augean Alley
Grade: VI 6 ***
(Ben Nevis)