370m, 8 pitches.
This fine route cuts through the steep walls between Realisation and Harlequin Rib for five pitches before joining Harlequin Rib for the final 145m. Start at icefalls on the right hand side of the frontal face.
1. 45m. Climb the icefall and move up and right to a second icefall. Climb this until it is possible to break right onto a steep wall, which is climbed on tufts and ice to reach a terrace. Traverse right for 4m to a fine exposed stance on the rib. A serious pitch.
2. 50m. Step right onto a steep turfy slab, and climb this (tenuous) to a terrace. Move 3m left and climb a steep groove immediately left of a grey flaky arête, pulling steeply onto the arête at the top. Continue up moderate ground over a short steep step to a belay in a grey bay beneath the next steep tier
3. 45m Climb up to and through a left leaning corner slot. Above the slot, make a difficult move right, climb up to easier ground, and continue to a terrace. Move 5m left to belay beneath a triangular roof on a rib.
4. 35m. Climb the superb open corner on the right, then moderate ground to belay at the next steep tier.
5. 50m. Move right to enter the bottomless groove 2m left of the arête. Climb the fine groove on spaced turfs and positive hooks, Continue up easier ground to a junction with Harlequin Rib.
6-8 145m., Follow Harlequin Rib to the summit.
1. 45m. Climb the icefall and move up and right to a second icefall. Climb this until it is possible to break right onto a steep wall, which is climbed on tufts and ice to reach a terrace. Traverse right for 4m to a fine exposed stance on the rib. A serious pitch.
2. 50m. Step right onto a steep turfy slab, and climb this (tenuous) to a terrace. Move 3m left and climb a steep groove immediately left of a grey flaky arête, pulling steeply onto the arête at the top. Continue up moderate ground over a short steep step to a belay in a grey bay beneath the next steep tier
3. 45m Climb up to and through a left leaning corner slot. Above the slot, make a difficult move right, climb up to easier ground, and continue to a terrace. Move 5m left to belay beneath a triangular roof on a rib.
4. 35m. Climb the superb open corner on the right, then moderate ground to belay at the next steep tier.
5. 50m. Move right to enter the bottomless groove 2m left of the arête. Climb the fine groove on spaced turfs and positive hooks, Continue up easier ground to a junction with Harlequin Rib.
6-8 145m., Follow Harlequin Rib to the summit.
Simon Yearsley & Malcolm Bass 28/Dec/2009.
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Route of Interest
Tower Finish
Grade: VII 8 ***
(Sgurr an Fhidhleir)