Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Tiptoe around the Mescalito arete to a hanging stance on wires plus the first bolt. Climb the difficult lower wall on layaways with typically poor footholds to reach jugs and easier ground. From a resting place below a bulge. Climb up to the bulge (poor rock) and cross it rightwards to a shakeout, another move up left brings jugs and an easier finish.

Ticklists

Bolts to clip in Cheddar , Cheddar 7a+ Challenge

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brazilia '87

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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