UKH Hills - 'Eagle Front'

150m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Magnificent climbing and ambience combine to give one of the finest VSs around. Although the cliff as a whole is very dirty, the rock quality and climbing on the route is excellent, although dry conditions are not a given, even in summer. Start at a well-worn belay ledge next to a narrow rib.
1) 17m. Ascend the narrow rib and move right to a good ledge and belay.
2) 4c, 28m. A sustained pitch. Move up a groove and then go rightwards to the start of a narrowing ramp. Go left along the ramp and make a precarious move to a good ledge and spike. Move right and up again before a few balancy moves left gain a good right-leading juggy flake. Pull along the flake to a good ledge and belays.
3) 4c, 12m. Make bouldery moves to gain a position where a step right reaches a big grass ledge. Climb easily to the grassy terrace and belay.
4) 4a, 23m. Traverse the grassy terrace and make a tricky step across a slim slab to a tiny tree. Move left and up to a rock ledge and a difficult-to-arrange belay on nuts, cams and a small spike.
5) 4c, 12m. Move up left to a small spike runner (thin tape) and go a further 3m before heading back right to better holds and easier moves to the right to gain an awkward stance.
6) 4b, 13m. Make an exposed traverse right to a corner. Climb the corner to a large ledge below an impressive corner and wide crack.
7) 4b, 18m. Climb the corner-crack, and at its top move right to a ledge and belay.
8) 8m. Easy ground leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Great VS Climbs in the Lake District , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Select VS Climbs in the Lake District , UK Classic Corners , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , High Quality Adventure routes , FRCC Mega Classics , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Nuts of Legends , York University Students path to greatness , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Alternative Lakeland Classic Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Lake District , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Cumbria for the Recreational User , Chasing Stars across the UK

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Jaco1878	9 Sep, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Fantastic day with possibly the best conditions, real head game climbing and some tricky moves to get you thinking ! classic Lakeland mountaineering	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fantastic day with possibly the best conditions, real head game climbing and some tricky moves to get you thinking ! classic Lakeland mountaineering
FelixC	12 Aug, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Abseil points on top of P3 and 7 but mallions were rusty so walked off	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Abseil points on top of P3 and 7 but mallions were rusty so walked off
djwilse	22 Jul, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Pitch 6 finish to belay (after traverse) - the direct corner finish up to the belay has loose flakes on, should be taken by moving up left hand side of wall instead (although would be difficult in wet, as would all the route).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitch 6 finish to belay (after traverse) - the direct corner finish up to the belay has loose flakes on, should be taken by moving up left hand side of wall instead (although would be difficult in wet, as would all the route).
DavidBaines	26 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Peg belay at top of pitch 5 is badly rusted
Show beta βeta: Peg belay at top of pitch 5 is badly rusted
JackO3522	16 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route a tad wet and a little more exciting that it would be in the dry - the last pitch is amazing and makes up for average climbing before then
neuromancer	18 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack.
Show beta βeta: Pretty sparsely geared (about a placement every 7-10m, not easy to place and takes some fiddling) outside of the last pitch. Take small pro and slings for the plentiful chockstones hidden in the final crack.
Powertrain	11 Nov, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route is very much harder after a wet spell and takes a long time to dry
ilw	1 Jun, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.
Show beta βeta: Belay at end of pitch 5 is suspect relative to others on route with 2 old pegs (05.2020) and les than bombproof placements nearby. Pitch 6 finish is easier up the slaby walls left of the corner to grassy ledges if dry.