Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

60m, 2 pitches. A fine adventure route which gradually evolves from nervy quarried rock terrain into naturally weathered limestone climbing. Thoroughly checked over in 2018, with all old ironmongery and tat stripped and replaced (where req'd) and good stainless pegs installed on the P1 belay. The line is sadly prone to dirt & vegetation build up over time, which in particular can cover & fill important shotholes - latest abseil check/tidy-up Aug 2023. Brown & blue tricams are useful on P1 shotholes, inverted nuts can substitute. Recent checks have cleared obviously loose rock, but care is still required with any suspect blocks/holds. The 'yellow rurties' and other lichens can disconcertingly reduce friction, wait for dry conditions. The nervous traverse on P1 (no novices - 2nd should be confident at HVS) is best taken on the higher line, giving access to a wire placement half way along (plus a small hole which takes a black tricam, if possessed...) - good ropework and several long slings are required to account for that traverse. Belay options at the top are to rope off the fence or, slightly nearer, fix to a couple of old quarry bolts/chains set back down right at the top. (A peg at the top of the Dirt Eater tower is a reasonable placement, but in cracked rock, hence use as a backup only).

FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Hammond 19/Apr/1970.

Ticklists

South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 4
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seventh Dread

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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