Rockfax Description
360m. The most popular start to the best known route on the face, this is about the only line around here where you might expect to have some company. The climbing is superb until the last few pitches (which are a bit loose) and the route provides an excellent mid-grade adventure, albeit a bold one in places.
1) 3c. Follow the slab easily leftwards.
2) 5b. Continue leftwards across the slab and then go straight up to a grassy terrace, 5m to the left of a corner. It is easy to stray too far leftwards here but stay right.
The Classic Start - This is now rarely climbed but does go at about the same level of difficulty. Climb the slab and crack above to a corner followed by a slab and bolted belay. Traverse right to join the parent line on pitch 2. Pitches are - 5c, 4c, 5b.
3) 5b. Take the left-hand of twin cracks and then (ignoring the line of bolts which goes straight up - this is the rarely climbed Revers de la Médaille) traverse rightwards across a vague scoop. The belay is hard to spot until you're almost on it hidden behind a shoulder.
4) 5c. Climb the right-leaning crack above the belay and then easier ground diagonally leftwards to an exposed ledge.
5) 5c. Continue up the slab on the right and through a small overlap with a peg in it. Above this, follow the thin crack to where it peters out and then climb right to a belay just above a huge block with a series of smaller rocks jammed behind it.
6) 5a. Downclimb a metre and then climb a flake-crack heading up diagonally rightwards. There is the odd bolt but, if this is near your limit it will feel bold and exposed. When the flakes run out, follow a 5m corner (two pegs) straight up to a bolt belay.
7) 5b. Traverse diagonally left up a break then go straight up for 5m where this peters out. The exposure on this pitch is breathtaking so (if you dare) try to look down and savour it.
8) 4c. Head straight up broken ground to reach a grassy terrace.
9) 5a. Take the groove above and right of the belay. Cross grassy ledges to a belay below and 5m right of a grey corner.
10) 5a. Move left and climb the grey corner. Where this widens, step right and follow a short, easy slab to a belay on a ledge.
Above this, head back left and climb the easy, broken groove above. Follow this for two or three pitches to the summit, drifting gradually rightwards to avoid anything that looks difficult. Don't be tempted out right by the occasional appealing-looking ramp - all of these blank out and you need to stick with the groove all the way to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range , Summer easier alpine

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User Date Notes
tskelhon 9 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Route finding on P3 can be tricky due to the lack of features and bolts all over the place. At the end of pitch 2, the equipped belay is on a left trending diagonal ramp further left than the Piola and Rockfax suggest. From this, you need to move up and back right, aim to climb 5m left of the vertical overlap you had to traverse under in P2. You'll see a shiny bolted belay at 20m, this is your cue to move horizontally right 15m over the shoulder - this is where the true belay is. Near the top (P10 in rockfax), when you follow the grey corner - stay in the groove, until it opens out to a left trending diagonal ramp. Continue directly up a vague groove and you'll arrive at a chimney full of jammed blocks - take the chimney following it leftwards, this will drop you out on the summit scramble.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route finding on P3 can be tricky due to the lack of features and bolts all over the place. At the end of pitch 2, the equipped belay is on a left trending diagonal ramp further left than the Piola and Rockfax suggest. From this, you need to move up and back right, aim to climb 5m left of the vertical overlap you had to traverse under in P2. You'll see a shiny bolted belay at 20m, this is your cue to move horizontally right 15m over the shoulder - this is where the true belay is. Near the top (P10 in rockfax), when you follow the grey corner - stay in the groove, until it opens out to a left trending diagonal ramp. Continue directly up a vague groove and you'll arrive at a chimney full of jammed blocks - take the chimney following it leftwards, this will drop you out on the summit scramble.

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Voting
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 10
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Manhattan

Grade: TD- 6a ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)

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