Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
Rockfax Description
Begin at a good pocket on the slab and climb direct to below a ledge. Tricky moves to gain and leave the ledge lead to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start by getting right hand in good pocket in the slab. Climb direct until hard moves enable the ledge at two thirds height to be gained and mounted. Moves off the ledge are tricky for the short but quickly lead to the lower-off.
FA. Mark McManus 2014.
The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)