Rockfax Description
A long mountaineering-style climb that has plenty of interest and is much less travelled than the nearby Bridge's Route. Start as for Trespasser Groove.
1) 40m. As for Trespasser Groove.
2) 15m. Climb a short corner and continuation out rightwards to grassy ledges and a belay below a long straight crack.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb the crack to a grassy ledge and belay.
4) 18m. Head up direct to another grass ledge. Make an awkward move left around a rib which allows access to a large ledge and belay - 'The Waiting Room'.
5) 4b, 10m. Move right and ascend the leaning chimney to a ledge and belay.
6) 25m. Continue up the deep groove/corner until a ledge on the right is traversed to slabs that lead to the top. © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
C Witter | 13 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Historically important, somewhat neglected, it is a great adventure that gives a sense of what the pioneers must have encountered (think: grass-choked cracks and weighting sods of earth that may give way in brilliant positions; don't think: I'll wear my tight shoes). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Historically important, somewhat neglected, it is a great adventure that gives a sense of what the pioneers must have encountered (think: grass-choked cracks and weighting sods of earth that may give way in brilliant positions; don't think: I'll wear my tight shoes). |
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Grade: HS 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))