Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Steep, crazy climbing, tackling the cave at its very centre. Start on the right side of the pillar. (7b S3).
1) 13m, 6a. Climb the short groove, then up through two roofs, to belay on the left.
2) 10m, 6a. Traverse rightwards along a fault, then pull up and left to gain a hanging wall, belay at the top of this.
3) 10m, 6b. Climb leftwards and down slightly, to make a precarious bridge onto the horn; then get established on it, using a distant undercut. Follow a line of undercuts to gain the corner above, belaying on the thread as for The Abyss.
4) 12m, 5b. As for The Abyss. © Rockfax
FA. A.Long, C.Waddy pre-2002. FSA. J.Lines 9.9.2006.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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Dead Choughed
Grade: E6 6b ***
(The Castle)