Restricted Access
Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A brilliant, visionary line, tackling the massively overhanging left wall of the cave. The first ascent was soloed (7b S3) and it has yet to be led on gear.
1) 20m, 6b. From the Beat Ledge, follow The One-eyed Man across the lower face, then drop down and traverse into the cave, using the fingery hanging wall. Make a hard move into the inner cave, to belay on a slab beneath the hanging off-width.
2) 16m, 6b. Move up and rightwards into the hanging 45˚ off-width and follow this. Then swing left and take a series of jugs to reach a hanging tunnel for a well-earned rest. Drop out of the tunnel and move left on undercuts, to gain the lip of the cave. Move up the wall to reach the thread belay in the base of the corner.
3) 12m, 5b. Climb the superb welded-flowstone corner all the way to the top. © Rockfax
FSA. Julian Lines 11/Sep/2005.
Ticklists
The Best of Pembroke , UK road to wide crack mastery , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Mother Carey's Kitchen
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The Great White
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Lydstep Point Area)