Abseil from the top of Brazen Butress.
This crag is not in the MoD range. There are some bird nests in the Chimney area ( behind Brazen Buttress) but climbing is unrestricted at present as long as climbers minimise disturbance - i.e. don't hang around any longer than necessary where birds are flying in and out of the area. Bird nesting can vary a lot here from year to year - please do a visual check before starting your route, particularly around 'The Cracks' to 'Star Gate' area. A sign will be placed above Brazen Buttress if there is a seasonal restriction in place and this website will be updated.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Traverse out rightwards from the Beat Ledge to pockets, and climb the thin wall above (crux) to the half-height ledge. Reverse down Snobs, or take the superb crack-line above to the very top (7a S3). © Rockfax
FA. A.Sharp, J.Harwood 2.9.1986. FSA. J.Lines 1.9.2005.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(The Castle)