300m. The face itself is easy enough, if you can get across the bergschrund. If however you follow the guide book description and head for the first col North of the Summit, you are in for a big surprise! An overhanging in places pitch of difficult rock climbing, which is certainly very thought provoking if you have come prepared for an ice-face and have no rock gear to protect it. This pitch appears to be the crux of the North Ridge route.

Heavy snow, iced-up rock and a semi-blizzard adds extra spice to this last pitch, as does the fact that you have to pass it to get to the easy way down. Possibly if you went right at the top of the face, rather than left to the col, it might be easier, I don't know.

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Route of Interest
Classique Sud

Grade: D ***
(Aiguille d'Orny)

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