Rockfax Description
A striking chimney line by the prolific Castiglioni-Detassis duo. Harder than the others on the face, it can be aided at A0 bringing the grade more in line with its neighbours.
Start to the right of the two prominent caves, left of the prominent line of the chimney, followed by the route higher up.
1) III, 40m. Climb easy ground, trending left slightly to a ledge.
2) IV, 35m. Move a few metres right, staying left of the main chimney, and climb a corner-crack. Move easily to a scree ledge.
3) IV, 40m. Climb up and right on easy ground, entering a black gully, and climb direct to a roof. Pull through this, traverse left then climb a short corner before moving back right to a stance below the right edge of a roof.
4) V+, 20m. Climb direct, move right under the roof, then climb the crack to the right of this on good holds. Follow the easier continuation crack back left to a large thread directly below the main chimney system.
5) IV+, 35m. Climb the chimney direct to a stance on the left.
6) IV, 30m. Continue in the same line to a niche on the right.
7) IV+, 45m. Exit left from the niche and climb the chimney to a hole (intermediate thread belay). Continue direct then, after overcoming a chockstone, moves right lead to a good ledge with two prominent niches above and right.
8) IV+, 35m. Keep left of the niches (an alternative variant takes a line between them) then follow a ramp left then back right to a pegged stance, just left of the upper chimney system.
9) IV-, 50m. Climb the chimney then where this widens at the top exit right to the summit plateau. © Rockfax
FA. Castiglioni, Detassis 1935 15/Jun/1935.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Cuthbert | 15 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Note, in spite of Rockfax's 2 star rating, this is clearly an old skool undertaking. pitch 1 is essentially a loose gully with no real climbing and that gives way to a bold second pitch which requires overcoming a huge, bulging chockstone that is initially impossible to protect, loose, and with the cracks jammed with mud. A fall from the chockstone onto the slab below would be extremely serious. I considered it unjustifiable. We retreated from the belay of pitch 1 which consists of very old pegs (poor condition) and some new in-situ abseil tat that suggest we were not the first to make that choice. A pointless excursion worthy of no stars whatsoever! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Note, in spite of Rockfax's 2 star rating, this is clearly an old skool undertaking. pitch 1 is essentially a loose gully with no real climbing and that gives way to a bold second pitch which requires overcoming a huge, bulging chockstone that is initially impossible to protect, loose, and with the cracks jammed with mud. A fall from the chockstone onto the slab below would be extremely serious. I considered it unjustifiable. We retreated from the belay of pitch 1 which consists of very old pegs (poor condition) and some new in-situ abseil tat that suggest we were not the first to make that choice. A pointless excursion worthy of no stars whatsoever! |
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Via delle Guide
Grade: V+ ***
(Brenta Group)