Rockfax Description
Another enjoyable chimney route with the added appeal of a long yet easy traverse. Like all the routes on this face, it can suffer from seepage and is only recommended after dry weather.
Start in the gully between Sasso delle Nove and Sasso delle Dieci, below and right of a large boulder.
1) III, 60m. Climb the right side of the gully for 5m, overcoming the boulder, to reach a long ledge. Follow this right (intermediate belay on pegs) for 50m, passing below a large roof, then step up into the gully just right of this.
2) IV-, 35m. Climb the gully direct to a stance below a niche on the right.
3) III+, 35m. Continue in the same line past a chockstone, with nice climbing, then exit right to a ledge below another niche.
4) IV-, 40m. Move right below the niche then climb flakes direct, then right, to reach a ledge.
5) IV-, 25m. Follow the ledge right - initially easy then with some exposed moves - to reach a stance just left of the arete.
6) IV-, 40m. Continue the traverse, making a short down-climb of a few metres immediately past the arete. Continue to the back wall and belay on a small terrace.
7) IV-, 40m. Climb easy ground right then ascend a more challenging flake direct to a good thread.
8) IV-, 35m. Continue in the same line then move right into the gully. Belay on a good ledge.
9) II, 50m. Follow the gully on easy but loose ground to a ledge.
10) IV-, 35m. Climb direct up a loose spur to a good stance.
11) I, 100m. Follow scree up and right to reach the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Von Martin, Rumpelt 1908 15/Jun/1908.

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