Rockfax Description
A bold climb with limited fixed gear. The route tackles the compact north face with difficult sections around two prominent roofs. Sustained in the middle section.
From a support pylon of the rifugio's teleferica cableway, follow a climbers' path left to the base of a grey ramp, leading left.
1) III, 60m. Follow ramped rock left for 40m, move back right then left again below a long low niche and belay at the far left-hand side of this.
2) III+, 35m. Climb a short slab just left of the niche to a ledge, then continue in the same line to a good stance by a group of small pinnacles.
3) VI, 30m. Climb a few metres direct then follow a corner-crack right then direct towards a roof. Move under this with well-protected but quite strenuous climbing then climb a delicate slab above.
4) V, 15m. Climb a flake above direct, then at a small cairn below a bulge move right to a stance in a niche.
5) V, 30m. Move right from the niche, climb a slab direct then traverse left for 6m before following a crack up to a two-peg belay.
6) V, 25m. Continue the traverse left for another 6m then climb the black slab above direct to a well-pegged stance below the right side of the long roof.
7) VI-, 20m. Move right under the roof then pull through to follow a flake back left above it to a stance below a small corner.
8) IV+, 50m. Climb the corner then follow easier ground direct to a spike belay on the ridge below the summit.
9-10) I, 100m. Continue up easily on scree to join the final upper spur shared with the Piaz, Steger and Fedele routes, then continue in the direction of Rifugio Re Alberto to reach the summit. © Rockfax

Feedback Always Hide βeta