Rockfax Description
From Bivacco Slataper continue following the path west, ascending 70m to shortly reach Forcella delle Bivacco, the highest point of the route at 2670m which yields impressive views over the Cadore valley below. The following descent down via ferrata Francesco Berti whilst not particularly difficult is very exposed and care must be taken, especially on some of the looser sections. There are several airy ladders and multiple ledges to negotiate as the route winds its way around the southern and then south-western flanks of Croda Marcora with several unprotected sections. Ignore the turn off onto path 241 which leads down to Dogana Vechia in Cadore and instead stay up high, following route 242 as it turns north, traversing an undulating scree path with more impressive exposure, to reach Forcella Sora la Cengia del Banco, some two hours after departing Bivacco Slataper. © Rockfax

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zb1 15 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Small stream running half way down when you descend some scree on 15/08/23. Didn't find any other water over the 2 days going clockwise so was very glad when I did.
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βeta: Small stream running half way down when you descend some scree on 15/08/23. Didn't find any other water over the 2 days going clockwise so was very glad when I did.
EllieCotterill 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Did the whole circuit in one day (from the road and back) took 13 hours including all rests and stops. Would recommend doing it anti-clockwise as in the guidebooks (although many people seem to say clockwise) but anti-clockwise gets the exposed (scary!) scree ledges before VF Berti out of the way near the start of the day, and means your scrambling the unprotected rock steps upwards, which is much nicer than descending them at the end. VF Vandelli was much better protected by cables and made for an easy down climb at the end of the (long) day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the whole circuit in one day (from the road and back) took 13 hours including all rests and stops. Would recommend doing it anti-clockwise as in the guidebooks (although many people seem to say clockwise) but anti-clockwise gets the exposed (scary!) scree ledges before VF Berti out of the way near the start of the day, and means your scrambling the unprotected rock steps upwards, which is much nicer than descending them at the end. VF Vandelli was much better protected by cables and made for an easy down climb at the end of the (long) day.

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High VF3D
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High VF3C
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Low VF3C
High VF3B
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Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via delle Bochette Centrali (VF)

Grade: VF3C ***
(Brenta Group)

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