Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Note - first pitch flake for runner has come off so no protection until sapling ledge. 23.03.22 Grade updated to VS 4b (from HS 4b) to reflect the missing holds and serious feel that this climb offers as per recent comments
DT Dove Mar/1965.
Ticklists
Wintours Leap easy multipitch , Wintours Sub 4c Half km challenge , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mattress | 8 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some loose block trundled from P3 and pegs replaced, but this is still a route to be cautious on. Much of P1 is essentially unprotected traversing across crumbling soil ledges. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Some loose block trundled from P3 and pegs replaced, but this is still a route to be cautious on. Much of P1 is essentially unprotected traversing across crumbling soil ledges. |
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| ClimbingNut | 8 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Last pitch is nothing special and has some awful loose blocks. I think last pitch of zelda would be a better and safer option | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Last pitch is nothing special and has some awful loose blocks. I think last pitch of zelda would be a better and safer option |
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| BStar | 21 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Holds missing on first pitch, now serious and bold for both leader and second. Suffers from seapage in places (TBF it is march). Felt more like VS 4b/4c. Lots of useful logbook entries, wish I'd read them! For comparison, Joes route feels more straight forward and safer, Butterfly certainly more safe/straightforward, Simplex - similar feel, granted Bottle buttress direct feels harder, Freedom feels safer but harder moves. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Holds missing on first pitch, now serious and bold for both leader and second. Suffers from seapage in places (TBF it is march). Felt more like VS 4b/4c. Lots of useful logbook entries, wish I'd read them! For comparison, Joes route feels more straight forward and safer, Butterfly certainly more safe/straightforward, Simplex - similar feel, granted Bottle buttress direct feels harder, Freedom feels safer but harder moves. |
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| badgerjockey | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Midway up P3 and out of the left there is a new bolt and ring for abbing if you prefer. To find the start of the whole route, find the big obvious right-facing corner of Zelda, then hop down and left from the foot of that corner into a 'pit' and step left 1 or 2m. The vague ramps and hidden flake type holds on a 3m high slab mark the start - you'll want to trend, and then walk, leftwards over some saplings at 3m above the pit to the corner to continue the climb to the P1 belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Midway up P3 and out of the left there is a new bolt and ring for abbing if you prefer. To find the start of the whole route, find the big obvious right-facing corner of Zelda, then hop down and left from the foot of that corner into a 'pit' and step left 1 or 2m. The vague ramps and hidden flake type holds on a 3m high slab mark the start - you'll want to trend, and then walk, leftwards over some saplings at 3m above the pit to the corner to continue the climb to the P1 belay. |
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| oygrande | 14 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big block on the first travers is loose. Don’t place any gear on it. Better to get gear in high in the corner and start the travers (easy moves left). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Big block on the first travers is loose. Don’t place any gear on it. Better to get gear in high in the corner and start the travers (easy moves left). |
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| cwildblood | 22 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Start is quite diagonal leftwards and as above flake for runner before saplings doesn't exist | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Start is quite diagonal leftwards and as above flake for runner before saplings doesn't exist |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Freedom
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)