Restricted Access

Access currently barred west of The Cauldron. For Skildren Mór, access is subject to permission from the land owner, John Ward (john@headland.ie)

140m, 5 pitches. Descend, next to the ridge, to sea level and the western toe of the ridge.
40m Scramble up the ridge to reach the large flakey belay on the 1st summit
10m Move over the grassy top to belay on a small rock outcrop that provides a good observation point on the left, slightly lower than the grassy knoll on the crest of the ridge.
40m The Dallas Pitch. Go over the grassy knoll and descend a series of steps to belay in the col below. There is some loose rock at the top. This belay can be reached directly from the slopes below by a short scramble.
40m The Blade. A cracking pitch. The way is obvious! Up the crest of the ridge, (A cheval in places) to where the ridge steepens. Up the rock to below the notch in the final gendarme and step out onto the southern face. Step up and stand on the top and start to smile for a photo before belaying.
10m Descend easily and go up the slope to a good thread belay.

Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley (Alt Lead) 24/Oct/2010.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star D-HS

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User Date Notes
Neston Climber 1 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Scarily lose in places, but the 3rd pitch knife edge is fantastic and relatively solid rock. Just the right side of exciting.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Scarily lose in places, but the 3rd pitch knife edge is fantastic and relatively solid rock. Just the right side of exciting.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Route of Interest
Lizard Line

Grade: VD ***
(Malin Head)

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