45m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake to a break and move left to a shallow depression. Pull over the bulge then head left to a prominent diagonal thin crack (pegs). Climb this with difficulty to join Fear and Fascination at its shallow niche. Follow Fear and Fascination to the rest ledge, then take the wall above it for 5m until level with some overhangs on the left. Follow a line of holds left across the wall to the base of a groove. Climb the groove before moving right to a ledge and break. Head up the wall to the next break and continue straight up (peg), to finish up a short corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at the Fast and Furious flake. Climb the flake, step left and climb the wall to reach the next break. Step left and climb the powerful diagonal crack (peg) to reach a junction with Fear and Fascination at it's old drilled pegs (Golos). Pull up and right for a few moves (shake out) to a better rest on a hanging ledge above (small cams). Climb the corner above for 7 metres, before following a line of holds left across the wall (crucial cam slot) and slightly down to the base of a groove (rest). Climb the groove for a few moves and pull right onto a ledge and break (good cams). Climb the wall to the next break and continue straight up the wall above, passing a peg to exit in the short corner at the highest point of the wall. One of the finest and steepest pitches of its grade in the country.

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , James' Summer Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
J B Oughton 15 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Clean and chalked (ish) as of July 21 - get on it! Some beta that would've been nice to know: 1. Take lots of small-medium cams. 2. Take lots of long/extendable draws and extend as much as you feel comfortable with. 3. There is a solid horizontal cam slot (grey camalot) at the end of the traverse left near the top - I nearly climbed past this and it would've been a bit spicy without!
Show beta
βeta: Clean and chalked (ish) as of July 21 - get on it! Some beta that would've been nice to know: 1. Take lots of small-medium cams. 2. Take lots of long/extendable draws and extend as much as you feel comfortable with. 3. There is a solid horizontal cam slot (grey camalot) at the end of the traverse left near the top - I nearly climbed past this and it would've been a bit spicy without!
Lh88 22 Jun, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: Hard moves at the top of the crack. Will have to come back for another go!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard moves at the top of the crack. Will have to come back for another go!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Dove Crag (Dovedale)

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Redpoint
Ground Up
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pail Face (Bucket City Finish)

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Dove Crag (Dovedale))

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