Access Banned
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
Rockfax Description
The traditional route to the magnificent summit of the Long Stone is a well-travelled outing. From a belay on the col between the main cliff and the pinnacle, move up right to a sloping ledge and then climb a short steep wall to another ledge. Traverse left to a groove (iron hook spike) and climb it to the summit.
Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The Original route to the top of the Longstone pinnacle (Needle Rock). Sports an ancient iron hooked spike in-situ runner half way up. Shiny but beautiful.
Ticklists
The Yat road to ruins HVS , Welcome to CUMC , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| springfall2008 | 27 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue. |
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| NigelHurst | 18 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough. |
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| Mattress | 21 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks. |
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| smile youve won | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn\'t really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn't really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Central Rib Route I
Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)