Rockfax Description
A superb way to continue your adventure from the top of The Nose. Use any route to gain the ledge above The Nose.
1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent gully. Move right just below the top of the pinnacle onto heather, then continue diagonally right to a short groove and a ledge. Continue zig-zagging rightwards with care to reach a tree and flake belay. Beware of people below.
2) 4b, 25m. Move right and up to a large flake. Climb the rightward-trending slab to gain a hand-traverse which leads to the 'Slow Ledge'. From the right-hand side of the ledge, climb a groove, then hand traverse right to gain a heathery stance.
3) 4b, 25m. Climb directly up into an unappealing groove and move left round a rib into another groove. Weave upwards on easier ground to a ledge.
4) 25m. Scramble off and belay well back. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Published grade is VS,4c not S,4a
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Snowdonia in Chains , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack
User | Date | Notes | ||
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paulinepavlova | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Jammed Boulder Gully abseil is pretty much walk right without going up. tat is pretty old/ suspect | βeta? | |
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βeta: Jammed Boulder Gully abseil is pretty much walk right without going up. tat is pretty old/ suspect |
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C Witter | 16 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Really fun and worthwhile route. Probably high 4b, but felt 4c in a couple of places with a rucksack. It is similar in many ways to Haste Not, on White Ghyll. Good protection and good climbing, with the ledge-shuffling scramble at the start only adding to the sense of adventure. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really fun and worthwhile route. Probably high 4b, but felt 4c in a couple of places with a rucksack. It is similar in many ways to Haste Not, on White Ghyll. Good protection and good climbing, with the ledge-shuffling scramble at the start only adding to the sense of adventure. |
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Sasuke3333 | 30 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Don\'t try and solo the scramble, it\'s quite steep and unstable choss | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't try and solo the scramble, it's quite steep and unstable choss |
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Evak | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: The abseil is quite hard to find. Scramble down the first gulley on the right, it\'s pretty slippery so be careful. The abseil is about 20metres scrambling down on the right side. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The abseil is quite hard to find. Scramble down the first gulley on the right, it's pretty slippery so be careful. The abseil is about 20metres scrambling down on the right side. |
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liamhughes1981 | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: The hand traverse is terrifying! | βeta? | |
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βeta: The hand traverse is terrifying! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)