25m.

Rockfax Description
One of the best single pitch climbs on this section of the cliff. Start below a thin crack-line just right of the low recess at the base of Simian. Make some hard, technical starting moves up the thin crack and continue to an overhang. Move left to below a steep corner and climb this to an interesting exit rightwards on some amazingly high friction rock. Take the long narrow corner more easily to the top. © Rockfax

G Mason, R Walker 1966.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , Avon VS challenge , No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff) , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1

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User Date Notes
quis 19 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: One of the glue in bolts has pulled out of the anchor ⅔ of the way up. Recommend avoiding and continuing to the tree at the top instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the glue in bolts has pulled out of the anchor ⅔ of the way up. Recommend avoiding and continuing to the tree at the top instead.
Jakob Annerdal 4 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: My first VS in Avon. Felt a bit spooky at times, but is well protected. Lots of small nuts at the start. The mantle exit from the overhanging corner is defiantly the crux, but the friction IS good, surprisingly. 3 bolts (2 of which are 'new') at the top.
Show beta
βeta: My first VS in Avon. Felt a bit spooky at times, but is well protected. Lots of small nuts at the start. The mantle exit from the overhanging corner is defiantly the crux, but the friction IS good, surprisingly. 3 bolts (2 of which are 'new') at the top.

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High HVS
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Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
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Votes cast 90
High 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 70
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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