Rockfax Description
A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , North Wales Super Route E6's , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Mike and Connors 2 year plan , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Definitive *** Llanberis , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Another lifelist?
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Will Rupp | 26 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gear beta... Found good red offset before traverse, an rp above the foot placed sling. Found clipping a low nut out and right at the base of right wall stopped the sling coming off. In the first porthole - sling, green totem, yellow totem, big green nut, a tricam out right and a blue totem up and left. Felt pretty bomber would've happily fallen on it. There's a good gold offset right of the second porthole and a black totem in the porthole. Gear after is obvious. I didn't end up using the skyhooks | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Gear beta... Found good red offset before traverse, an rp above the foot placed sling. Found clipping a low nut out and right at the base of right wall stopped the sling coming off. In the first porthole - sling, green totem, yellow totem, big green nut, a tricam out right and a blue totem up and left. Felt pretty bomber would've happily fallen on it. There's a good gold offset right of the second porthole and a black totem in the porthole. Gear after is obvious. I didn't end up using the skyhooks |
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| Theo Moore | 26 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: If anyone wants some gear beta I'll leave it below this line.... In addition to the usual stuff, I got a few really good pieces: keyed in red off-set nut before the rightwards traverse. At the foot-sling spike I was able to reach down a place a good red cam beneath it (although I couldn't repeat it a second time!). At the first hole you can lock sling in with a big green nut above it and there is a green totem in the top of the hole. Out right (if you don't look you won't see it) is a black tri-cam in a hole (the old peg hole?) which seems good. Just up and left on the hole in a vertical slot is a small blue Totem which, if you're able to place it properly, seems 100%. Right of the thread (about a metre) at the second hole is an excellent number 4 wire - tricky to place. Above the girdle ledge on the top wall is a good cluster of gear. The best pieces are a big yellow nut in the base of the groove in a good hand hold that is part of the left-hand layback. There is also a red cam (totem seemed good) in the big obvious hole thing at the base of groove proper. There's loads more just beneath it including a green cam. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: If anyone wants some gear beta I'll leave it below this line.... In addition to the usual stuff, I got a few really good pieces: keyed in red off-set nut before the rightwards traverse. At the foot-sling spike I was able to reach down a place a good red cam beneath it (although I couldn't repeat it a second time!). At the first hole you can lock sling in with a big green nut above it and there is a green totem in the top of the hole. Out right (if you don't look you won't see it) is a black tri-cam in a hole (the old peg hole?) which seems good. Just up and left on the hole in a vertical slot is a small blue Totem which, if you're able to place it properly, seems 100%. Right of the thread (about a metre) at the second hole is an excellent number 4 wire - tricky to place. Above the girdle ledge on the top wall is a good cluster of gear. The best pieces are a big yellow nut in the base of the groove in a good hand hold that is part of the left-hand layback. There is also a red cam (totem seemed good) in the big obvious hole thing at the base of groove proper. There's loads more just beneath it including a green cam. |
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| hugo glover | Aug, 1997 |
Show βeta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Cromlech
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The Rainbow of Recalcitrance
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)