July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
Head up the corner at the right-hand end of the slab, to a ledge. Climb the left edge of the slab above to reach the main slab. Follow a line of weakness diagonally across this to the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at the far right hand end of Railtrack Slab at the bounding corner of the slab, which is the corner immediately L of the Zut Alors arete. This is reached either by descending rightwards under Psychodelicate from the start of A Grand day Out or as for the "Below the Pans" level.
Climb the corner to a sloping ledge. Continue up the L edge of the slab above to another ledge then follow a weakness in the upper slab rising Lward to the top (crux at top - fine moves here) (12 B and 2 B LO). The route is diagonal and hard to strip on lower off. A belay has been provided at the back of the ledge above for those who prefer to top out.
H.Walmsley, C. Struthers 16/Apr/2014.
All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
edwardwoodward | 10 Jul, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: The top slab makes up for the grotty corners below. Note that the line of the lower-off takes your rope over a very sharp edge about 10m up. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The top slab makes up for the grotty corners below. Note that the line of the lower-off takes your rope over a very sharp edge about 10m up. |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)