Rockfax Description
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4b, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4c, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across the newly cleaned slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top.
A J J Moula, D Thomas 08/Mar/1952.
"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes , British Rock Tour April '24
User | Date | Notes | ||
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locksbury | 6 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route! |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)