2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start below the groove/chimney as for Daddy Cool.
1) 4a, 25m. Move up the left side of the groove and then step right across its top to the base of the vegetated slab. Climb this to belay at its top as for Merlin Direct.
2) 4b, 18m. Traverse left across the top of the slab to the corner. Move out to a crack and climb this with care to a tree belay below two grooves.
3) 4c, 21m. The right-hand groove is tricky. Finish up and left. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Heartbreak Hotel but trend rightwards across the newly cleaned slab to Merlin stance. Traverse left to belay above first tree. Brilliant, unlikely climbing to the top.

A J J Moula, D Thomas 08/Mar/1952.

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , North Wales Summer 21' , BSR multipitch routes , British Rock Tour April '24

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User Date Notes
locksbury 6 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With the exposure/airy moves it can seem VS, but honestly, with the size of holds and abundance of gear, it's still an HS or more accurately, an "EHS" (exposed HS). Good route!

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 52
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shadow Wall

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Carreg Wastad)

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