Restricted Access

Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species.

Respect The Ormes - YouTube

No climbing on the routes above the Marine drive before 6pm between July15th until Sept 8th this includes Mayfair Wall, the restriction extends to bank holiday weekends as well. Please adhere to this agreement (due to public safety issues during busy times) as it has taken a lot of work to secure access to these crags.

All the bouldering and the climbing in Parisellas's Cave and Mumbo-Jumbo areas are however permitted. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 25 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Choughs, which have special legal protection under the Wildlife and Countryside Act are nesting in the Testament area. Please avoid climbing (including bouldering) in the area between and including the routes "Testament" to "Lyon's Share" until the end of June. 

30m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent extension into the top of Mayfair. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Shelmerdine 2013.

Ticklists

Rock cats getting strong

Feedback

User Date Notes
richiebongo 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this it goes on forever.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really enjoyed this it goes on forever.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
When the Lion Feeds

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Lighthouse Crags)

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