The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
A big lead up a large section of slab. Begin under the centre of the slab and climb it past a horizontal break, and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a direct line up the slab above to the top and a stake belay. Saplings can be used for protection if desired. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start at some blocky little footholds and climb the slab very directly, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, backups (if desired) are a long way back.
Pulling ropes after abseiling from the stake is cutting a deep, earthy trough in the cliff-top, and making a real mess of the routes here. Please consider an alternative descent.
FA. I.Butterworth, R.Nadin, E.Findlay 11/Apr/2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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bpmclimb | 20 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pulling ropes after abseiling from the stake is cutting a deep, earthy trough in the cliff-top, and making a real mess of the routes here. Please consider an alternative descent. Thanks! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Pulling ropes after abseiling from the stake is cutting a deep, earthy trough in the cliff-top, and making a real mess of the routes here. Please consider an alternative descent. Thanks! |
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pguilloux | 3 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: Not much gear if you stick to the line from the diagonal crack underneath the ledge to quite high up on the upper slab. the climb isn't too hard though. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Not much gear if you stick to the line from the diagonal crack underneath the ledge to quite high up on the upper slab. the climb isn't too hard though. |
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SimonWooden | 19 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Very serious route if you stick to line. Maybe there's gear below ledge but I arrived at ledge expecting something good. Ended up traversing down and left to sapling and using a poor sling around a block on the right - neither of these recommended. Led through scoop but potentially moved into crack earlier than intended, but happy to get there. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Very serious route if you stick to line. Maybe there's gear below ledge but I arrived at ledge expecting something good. Ended up traversing down and left to sapling and using a poor sling around a block on the right - neither of these recommended. Led through scoop but potentially moved into crack earlier than intended, but happy to get there. |
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Steve Neads | 27 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: I avoided the scoop half way up - which certainly lowered the grade! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I avoided the scoop half way up - which certainly lowered the grade! |
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Mr Slippery | 28 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A pleasant climb with a couple of nice rest points. Gear generally good. Definitely worth the * rating in the guide book. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)