Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh mountain routes. It takes a superb line across the buttress, finishing in a glorious position on the upper 'outside edge'. Start below a block overhang towards the left of the face.
1) 18m. Climb rightwards up a groove below the block. Move right around it and up to a stance on the top.
2) 35m. A thin pull gains a ledge, then make a rising traverse up left to the arete. Climb this to a small ledge (possible belay) and then head direct on good holds to the right-hand end of Sunset Ledge.
3) 12m. Move your belay 6m to the left. Traverse left around some ribs to gain a groove. Climb this to a ledge and belay.
4) 25m. Climb up and left to a corner-crack. Gain this by a tricky move, then follow the corner before moving left onto the rib and up to a belay ledge.
5) 20m. Easy climbing up a rib gains the escape path, follow this around to the left, or..
6) 20m. Climb a short groove with a projecting block in it to gain the top of the ridge and great views all around. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Long Routes , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , No you're a punter , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RobD706 | 11 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can confirm all of the feedback since the rockfall. Original first pitch belay is now poorly protected — better to belay to the right of the bulge as opposed to on top or to run the first pitch into the first half of the second where there are two good spikes. Final pitch basically isn’t there now, and so care should be taken not to dislodge those big old rocks. Whole thing covered in small loose stones and generally more lose rock throughout. Still good climbing! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Can confirm all of the feedback since the rockfall. Original first pitch belay is now poorly protected — better to belay to the right of the bulge as opposed to on top or to run the first pitch into the first half of the second where there are two good spikes. Final pitch basically isn’t there now, and so care should be taken not to dislodge those big old rocks. Whole thing covered in small loose stones and generally more lose rock throughout. Still good climbing! |
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| JoeCoxson | 7 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose little bits everywhere, the block with the crack at the top of P1 needs scaling, but not by a leader unless you don’t like your partner very much. Better linking. Don’t even go near the top pitch as is. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Loose little bits everywhere, the block with the crack at the top of P1 needs scaling, but not by a leader unless you don’t like your partner very much. Better linking. Don’t even go near the top pitch as is. |
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| westong | 20 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Unaware of the rockfall we attempted this route on Saturday 18/06/22. Still a lot of loose rock on first pitch. No chance of belaying on top of the block. Poor wire behind very loose flake on the right only. Eventually belayed below the spikes at the right end of the block. Then returned to the floor. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Unaware of the rockfall we attempted this route on Saturday 18/06/22. Still a lot of loose rock on first pitch. No chance of belaying on top of the block. Poor wire behind very loose flake on the right only. Eventually belayed below the spikes at the right end of the block. Then returned to the floor. |
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| Freddie Moorhead | 15 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Follow the BMC warning: First pitch and belay are covered with loose rocks and there is almost no gear for the first belay apart from a dodgy purple cam and a nut... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Follow the BMC warning: First pitch and belay are covered with loose rocks and there is almost no gear for the first belay apart from a dodgy purple cam and a nut... |
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| Allen Newby | 10 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: 8th July 2021. A few loose stones on the first pitch but not too bad. The projecting block at the top has gone leaving a few large loose blocks and a lot of debris. It is best to avoid the top 10m or so by traversing off to the left. I would avoid climbing the route if there is already a party on it in case they dislodge anything from the top. It may also be an idea to avoid climbing it after heavy rainfall in case it loosens more debris. It is best to belay on a good spike just before the stance described in the guidebooks, since the wire placement above the belay is poor. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 8th July 2021. A few loose stones on the first pitch but not too bad. The projecting block at the top has gone leaving a few large loose blocks and a lot of debris. It is best to avoid the top 10m or so by traversing off to the left. I would avoid climbing the route if there is already a party on it in case they dislodge anything from the top. It may also be an idea to avoid climbing it after heavy rainfall in case it loosens more debris. It is best to belay on a good spike just before the stance described in the guidebooks, since the wire placement above the belay is poor. |
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| Binder | 3 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: 30 May 2021: the first pitch has some small loose stones on it but the rest of the pitches seemed fine. The top half of the last pitch still looks very loose but can be escaped with the path to the left. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 30 May 2021: the first pitch has some small loose stones on it but the rest of the pitches seemed fine. The top half of the last pitch still looks very loose but can be escaped with the path to the left. |
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| Woody63 | 14 May, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: From BMC site: Grid Reference: SH516500 Rockfall Warning August 2020 A significant rockfall occured in 2014, affecting the final pitches of the clasic roputes Outside Edge. A more recent rockfall in early August 2020, following a torrential thunderstorm has covered the lower pitches of Outside Edge route in a considerable amout of loose rock and debris. Climbing these routes now could be significantly more dangerous than they previously were, with huge loose blocks hanging over the upper parts of the route. The strong advice is to avoid this area and not to climb these routes in their curent state. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: From BMC site: Grid Reference: SH516500 Rockfall Warning August 2020 A significant rockfall occured in 2014, affecting the final pitches of the clasic roputes Outside Edge. A more recent rockfall in early August 2020, following a torrential thunderstorm has covered the lower pitches of Outside Edge route in a considerable amout of loose rock and debris. Climbing these routes now could be significantly more dangerous than they previously were, with huge loose blocks hanging over the upper parts of the route. The strong advice is to avoid this area and not to climb these routes in their curent state. |
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| Matdixon | 18 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I wish we'd read the feed back first as it turned into a scary epic journey. Personally I think this route is now dangerous especially for parties at the base of the route and on the first and last pitches. Substantial quantities of loose rock, blocks, scree situated right above the start of the route but out of sight from the base. Something may have impacted on the first belay as it shows shattering and there's only one poor wire to belay off. Better belay 10m up the next pitch. The top pitch is a bit of a horror show with few options but to tackle the loose shattered unstable area affected by the rock fall. There is also loose rock, soil and gravel all over the first and second pitches. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I wish we'd read the feed back first as it turned into a scary epic journey. Personally I think this route is now dangerous especially for parties at the base of the route and on the first and last pitches. Substantial quantities of loose rock, blocks, scree situated right above the start of the route but out of sight from the base. Something may have impacted on the first belay as it shows shattering and there's only one poor wire to belay off. Better belay 10m up the next pitch. The top pitch is a bit of a horror show with few options but to tackle the loose shattered unstable area affected by the rock fall. There is also loose rock, soil and gravel all over the first and second pitches. |
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| runwildjohn | 14 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lightning strike at the top of the route has shattered the top 15m, sending it down this and adjacent routes. Several car-size blocks are precariously hanging on - beware! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Lightning strike at the top of the route has shattered the top 15m, sending it down this and adjacent routes. Several car-size blocks are precariously hanging on - beware! |
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| GeorgeNunn | 11 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Think there may have been a lighting strike at the top. Route absolutely covered in rocks, mud, grit, slime. Climbable but only enjoyable in the spirit of adventure. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Think there may have been a lighting strike at the top. Route absolutely covered in rocks, mud, grit, slime. Climbable but only enjoyable in the spirit of adventure. |
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| jethro kiernan | 4 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Holds and gear flake leaving the belay ledge on pitch 2 loose and mat become detached very soon, caution | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Holds and gear flake leaving the belay ledge on pitch 2 loose and mat become detached very soon, caution |
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| FallingBrick | 1 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 4 (Rockfax) is challenging in the wet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pitch 4 (Rockfax) is challenging in the wet. |
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| kiopo | 2 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dodgy first belay stance that was difficult to protect with loose rock, we ended up going higher. Rockfax classics guide topo isn't useful above p3, isn’t on it | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dodgy first belay stance that was difficult to protect with loose rock, we ended up going higher. Rockfax classics guide topo isn't useful above p3, isn’t on it |
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| cameron_hall | 26 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a very creaky block above the first belay stance. The crack behind it is polished from lots of nut placements, but it should probably be trundled before too long. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a very creaky block above the first belay stance. The crack behind it is polished from lots of nut placements, but it should probably be trundled before too long. |
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| Liz.Morrison | 14 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Some rockfall fron the first pitch combined with seepage lines bumps the grade of the first pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Some rockfall fron the first pitch combined with seepage lines bumps the grade of the first pitch. |
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| jobangles | 10 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Dubious block above first belay ledge. Should have joined first 2 pitches.. pitch 4 seemed spicy for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Dubious block above first belay ledge. Should have joined first 2 pitches.. pitch 4 seemed spicy for the grade. |
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| AlexD-L | 24 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The guide we used has a correct description but incorrectly drawn line on the topo…(we confirmed this by comparison with other guides at home) but for the life of me I can\'t remember which was wrong...be careful? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The guide we used has a correct description but incorrectly drawn line on the topo…(we confirmed this by comparison with other guides at home) but for the life of me I can't remember which was wrong...be careful? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Sub-Cneifion Rib
Grade: VD ***
(Sub Cneifion Rib)