53 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route has a mind-blowing 53 pitches but, apparently it can be done in a day by a suitably competent team. Bold slab climbing is the name of the game. The top section is as for Vesteggen. © Rockfax

John Whittle/Chris Dale 1976.

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User Date Notes
tcn_2002 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Routefinding quite tricky before reaching the big corner.
βeta?
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βeta: Routefinding quite tricky before reaching the big corner.
hlegge 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Epic. Started from car at 08:45pm on 19th. 1 hour approach along shore and through woods, got cool scratch on face! 200m of averagely sketchy simul climbing up Slabs with no real gear, easy angle but grit on slab made footing not 100% secure. Evidence passed of previous relatively recent bails. I was on edge of calling it off, Tom ok to continue. Tom led first 700m! Felt like a passenger. Not my style of climbing and was not happy, so thank god for Tom! 9 hours to reach the obvious corner mentioned in guide books. Some very run out gardening pitches for Tom. I took over leading at the corner, the first grade 5 crux... sandbag. The moves to escape the corner after 20m were massively run out, 1 microcam 10m below which was marginal. Hardest moves facing a 20m fall which would land on belay ledge. Made them but was totally gripped. From this point however the climbing quality improved significantly. Finally some good quality rock and climbing despite still spaced gear. Passed 2nd crux ok, not too wet! Tom led last 3 Pitches to the ridge /shoulder. Very tired, tried to have 4 hour nap before going to crux pitches. Managed 1.5 hours but was too cold. Simul the ridge to base of first headwall. Vesteggen was phenomenal. Very happy to have crack climbing gloves and large cams. Made crux pitch strenuous but safe. Topped out at midnight after 26 hours 15 mins on route. Found stash on food and water we hand left previous day. Very psyched to finish route! Met Chloe just below false summit on descent who had come up to meet us. Got back down to camp 32 hours after leaving the car. Summary from Tom: vertical death moss. Summary from Hamish; epic sketchy gardening. Overall, great to have done and the major goal of the trip. But wouldn’t recommend the route for quality. 1 star for epicness. If significantly more competent climber and happy to seriously run out pitches then could knock a lot of time off. For us despite the technical crux being last 6 pitches the major difficulties were in the first section of the route before you get to the shoulder.
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βeta: Epic. Started from car at 08:45pm on 19th. 1 hour approach along shore and through woods, got cool scratch on face! 200m of averagely sketchy simul climbing up Slabs with no real gear, easy angle but grit on slab made footing not 100% secure. Evidence passed of previous relatively recent bails. I was on edge of calling it off, Tom ok to continue. Tom led first 700m! Felt like a passenger. Not my style of climbing and was not happy, so thank god for Tom! 9 hours to reach the obvious corner mentioned in guide books. Some very run out gardening pitches for Tom. I took over leading at the corner, the first grade 5 crux... sandbag. The moves to escape the corner after 20m were massively run out, 1 microcam 10m below which was marginal. Hardest moves facing a 20m fall which would land on belay ledge. Made them but was totally gripped. From this point however the climbing quality improved significantly. Finally some good quality rock and climbing despite still spaced gear. Passed 2nd crux ok, not too wet! Tom led last 3 Pitches to the ridge /shoulder. Very tired, tried to have 4 hour nap before going to crux pitches. Managed 1.5 hours but was too cold. Simul the ridge to base of first headwall. Vesteggen was phenomenal. Very happy to have crack climbing gloves and large cams. Made crux pitch strenuous but safe. Topped out at midnight after 26 hours 15 mins on route. Found stash on food and water we hand left previous day. Very psyched to finish route! Met Chloe just below false summit on descent who had come up to meet us. Got back down to camp 32 hours after leaving the car. Summary from Tom: vertical death moss. Summary from Hamish; epic sketchy gardening. Overall, great to have done and the major goal of the trip. But wouldn’t recommend the route for quality. 1 star for epicness. If significantly more competent climber and happy to seriously run out pitches then could knock a lot of time off. For us despite the technical crux being last 6 pitches the major difficulties were in the first section of the route before you get to the shoulder.

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Route of Interest
Nordostpilaren

Grade: n6 ***
(Stetind)

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