Rockfax Description
The other major face climbing showpiece of this wall has desperate but refined climbing. Start just to the left of the corner of Sacred Idol. Climb the wall to a tiny peg below the steep hanging groove. Gain the groove from the right and layback up it with much difficulty until you are high enough to make a terrifying step down and right onto a foothold near the lip of the overhang. Another committing high step/rockover leads to easier climbing up a flake - gear - continue direct to the top. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis
User | Date | Notes | ||
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jon | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: The RURP was a remnant of an (very) old aid traverse of the crag. I remember from the first ascent (June 86), it had long since lost its wire even then. I threaded it with some thin blue cord which according to Andy needs replacing! The rurp probably has zero holding power at all, its main value is that when clipped with a single krab, it prevents an outward pull on the small wires and therefore stops them from being pulled out as you climb above them. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The RURP was a remnant of an (very) old aid traverse of the crag. I remember from the first ascent (June 86), it had long since lost its wire even then. I threaded it with some thin blue cord which according to Andy needs replacing! The rurp probably has zero holding power at all, its main value is that when clipped with a single krab, it prevents an outward pull on the small wires and therefore stops them from being pulled out as you climb above them. |
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Andy Moles | 14 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The RURP has lost its wire. You would need a very thin piece of tat to thread the hole. There is other small gear available at this point. The described step back down to the foothold above the lip of the roof is not obligatory. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The RURP has lost its wire. You would need a very thin piece of tat to thread the hole. There is other small gear available at this point. The described step back down to the foothold above the lip of the roof is not obligatory. |
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Serengeti)