Rockfax Description
1) 4a, 35m, 2) 5a, 40m, 3) 5b, 30m, 4) 5c, 20m, 5) 5c, 20m, 6) 5b, 30m. There is a fingery section on pitch 4, and the route is well bolted. The upper stances are small - a consideration if doing the route as a three.
Descent - The best descent (approach shoes needed) is to head left - cairns and blue paint - to drop into the gully to the right of Jurassic Park then loop back round to the base of the route - about 45-60 minutes. If you miss a cairn it is worth backtracking. It is also possible to use the Panorama abseil on a 70m rope (2 x 32m abseils) - see page 322. However the chances are this will take you quite a bit longer than walking. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
4a, 5a, 5b, 5b, 5c, 5b
Start left of the fence to the left of Spartacus.
FA. Urs Odermatt, Peter Keller, Markus Leippold Sep/2013.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Kalymnos Top 50 , Kalymnos 2022
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kevinedwards | 13 May, 2022 |
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βeta: 12 May 22 - Pitches 4 & 5 are not 20mts, they are both 15mts max, probably less. In our opinion pitches 5 & 6 are 5b+. Pitch 4 is definitely the hardest pitch 5c. Overall a great route. Watch carefully for the walk down | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 12 May 22 - Pitches 4 & 5 are not 20mts, they are both 15mts max, probably less. In our opinion pitches 5 & 6 are 5b+. Pitch 4 is definitely the hardest pitch 5c. Overall a great route. Watch carefully for the walk down |
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| Naomi.P | 19 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: P1+2 total is less than 70m and used about 15 draws skipping a few bolts | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: P1+2 total is less than 70m and used about 15 draws skipping a few bolts |
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| AP Mountaineering | 21 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Bolts not chained together so don't forget slings for setups. Walk down includes some scrambling but all doable with care. 2 loose blocks on the route itself that I noticed. Easy enough to avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bolts not chained together so don't forget slings for setups. Walk down includes some scrambling but all doable with care. 2 loose blocks on the route itself that I noticed. Easy enough to avoid. |
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| JimOakleyAdventures | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: 27 mins walk in from the concrete access road. Left some spare water hidden underbrush to collect on way down (28° on 20 Sep) Simo climbed first three pitches with x30 draws) 5c pitches suggest you climb normally with 15m of rope) Up to top in 1hr 22 mins. Easy walk off initially, well marked but could have made scooter retieval in 45 mins but went via water stash and recced all routes of “afternoon crag” so took 1 hour. Harder than “Regansburg” 5c over at Arhi sector. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 27 mins walk in from the concrete access road. Left some spare water hidden underbrush to collect on way down (28° on 20 Sep) Simo climbed first three pitches with x30 draws) 5c pitches suggest you climb normally with 15m of rope) Up to top in 1hr 22 mins. Easy walk off initially, well marked but could have made scooter retieval in 45 mins but went via water stash and recced all routes of “afternoon crag” so took 1 hour. Harder than “Regansburg” 5c over at Arhi sector. |
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| walshieboy | 11 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route, well bolted and a great line. We climbed as a 3, alternating leads. Bit cosy on one of the belays, but OK. Definitely worth the top 50 rating :-) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Spartacus Area
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Regina
Grade: 5c ***
(Telendos South Face)