Restricted Access
A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
A stunning route - sustained with a hard pull through the roof on the second pitch. Start at the foot of a slab, below a large roof.
1) 4b, 28m. Climb up the slab just to the right of the tree that dominates the central groove. Near the top, traverse right under the roof to gain a ledge above and right.
2) 6a, 25m. Move down and traverse above the lip of the roof. Follow this, then step up to the next roof and scuttle sideways to below a prominent groove. Move up the groove to a small niche and move up and right (possible peg?) to the final roof. A stiff pull through this is rewarded with a large jug and relief. Follow the groove above to the ledge and belay.
3) 4b, 10m. Move up and left from the belay on rock with amazing friction, then trend up and left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This route was traditionally aided, hence grades of HVS in some guidebooks. Nowadays the approaches to the aid section (pitch 2) are very polished, adding to the difficulty. If you want to do without the aid, then be warned that 'grade' is very reach-dependent, probably 6a on average. If you aid it, then check the condition of the pegs, but note that you can get wires in just above them. After the crux, the route degenerates into unsatisfying scrambling. This route goes through sensational territory, but I find it hard to recommend it.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| spidey | 4 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Second / highest peg is in poor condition insitu wire and lower peg not far away though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second / highest peg is in poor condition insitu wire and lower peg not far away though. |
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| Siongethinhill | 31 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Ab off at the top left. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Ab off at the top left. |
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| 193 | 31 May, 2022 |
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βeta: I find it hard to recommend the UKC version of things. very good route as shown by the stars in the voting | βeta? | |
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βeta: I find it hard to recommend the UKC version of things. very good route as shown by the stars in the voting |
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| myrddinmuse | 8 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Can't believe Livsey did this solo in Hush Puppies | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can't believe Livsey did this solo in Hush Puppies |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig y Castell (Tremadog)
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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The Overhanging Arete
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))